Combining the spices of South India with the more subtle tastes of Europe, Puducherry is unique in India for its French flavor. It still has a good sized population of French citizens, descendants of the colonizing families when this small city became an Indian Union territory in 1963. If you marry one of this group, now well integrated into the local community through intermarriage over the years, you are eligible to also get French citizenship. Adding quite a bit of panache to a marriage transaction. There is a French Consulate in the original French area now called “White Town” as well as many buildings in French colonial architectural style. It is also the home of the Sri Aurobindo Ashram which remains the heart of this part of the city. Sri Aurobindo was a strong Indian nationalist turned philosopher, yogi, and spiritual sage who died in 1950. We were told when the French left after Indian annexation, many homeowners gave their buildings to the Ashram which now dominates much of this domestic landscape, with all Ashram buildings painted grey and white for distinction.
We tour the town including the Cluny convent known for its fine embroidery, famous Aurobindo paper factor and a fine fabric shop. We had a long delicious lunch meal at the Palais de Mahe in an open restaurant with fans overhead bringing in the sea breezes on a hot day.
I walked around the corner just as the local catholic girls elementary school was dismissing its students for the day and the street was filled with parents, more fathers than mothers, picking up their offspring on scooters and. motorcycles. The girls looked healthy and joyful in white blouses and blue pinafores although I couldn’t help but worry a little about all those young girls and their parents without a helmet on anyone.
The main street that runs next to the beach has been permanently closed off to motorized traffic so that we are able to take a promenade, together with many others in the late afternoon to enjoy the cool breeze on a hot day. Along the way there is a memorial statue to Gandhi — and one to the former French Governor General, Joseph Dupleix, who lost the battle against the British along the way.
Earlier in the day we visited Auroville, an attempt at a Utopian community in the forested land near Puducherry, built on the principles of Sri Aurobindo at the direction of The Mother, a closely associated spiritual teacher, begun in 1968 and which today housing about 3500 members, about 30% of them raised outside India. It is a massive undertaking and although appearing successful, the master plan called for a community of about 50,000 before this time. They have a number of industries going to bring in revenue but I doubt it is enough for the grand scheme begun almost 60 years ago.
Our place for these two nights has been the exceptional Sanctuary Amaidiyana, located in the hills near Auroville and dedicated to spiritual and physical wellness. A very beautiful and peaceful place. We are being exceptionally well fed on this tour, perhaps over-fed or at least some of us, including myself, may be over-eating as huge breakfasts are available, as well as full sit down lunches and dinner ending around 10 pm. And, like at home, no matter what time I go to bed, I seem to get up every day around 4:30 am.
To really enjoy India, you need to be very flexible in your attitude about how the world should work. This morning after breakfast I went to the “wash room” at our lovely resort, the Mantra Koodam, where there was a Ladies, Gents and a clearly labeled separate Disabled toilet room. I used the Disabled one as it was free and found that, although larger then the others, the slide latch did not fit into the other side because the wood door had probably shifted a little — so it was not possible to lock it — and I think it was not at a height for anyone in a wheelchair to close in any case. The new sink inside the stall was at the same height as the 2 outside, impossible for anyone in a wheelchair to use. I didn’t notice any added hold bars either. Not an issue for me but difficult for anyone needing the relevant accommodations. One of our members later mentioned it to the manager who said they were adding a wing which would be accessible and would at that time make other changes on the property. I hope so.