Antarctica Days 5-6
We just returned from our morning zodiac outing into Paradise Bay, the location of the Brown Argentinian research station. Cold with a moving fog bank that obscured our view of the high mountain tops, except for a quick peak now and then, it was still an unbelievably beautiful experience. Our zodiac maneuvered in a calm cove filled with ice pieces, big and small, that calved off the many glaciers leading down to the water’s edge. There were numerous Antarctic cormorants on the guano-laden cliffs, some still feeding their young, as well as a single Cape Petrel in its rocky nest. Green malachite and orange lichen on the black basalt contrasted with the newly fallen snow that covered all the floating ice around us that created bright white mounds of various shapes in the water.
At one point, our zodiac driver had to stop and kick a large piece of ice off the motor so we could continue our cruise through the cold water. The blue of the bottom of the ice can be seen through the clear clean water as well as brown kelp on the bottom of the ocean floor.
I asked about the visible differences here due to recent climate change. Our naturalist said that it is a subtle shift as the 3 degree warmer temperature means more quickly melting ice and the krill which develop under such ice floes also are consequently fewer in number, providing less food for the penguins, birds, seals, and whales. And so the whole food chain is impacted. Visible changes include more green moss on the cliffs than previously. Another negative impact on the environment is the krill industry which harvests krill for its oil for commercial purposes. We are all connected in this world from furthest South to North.
Yesterday began with a landing of our zodiacs on Petermann Island, which included our only chance to see Adelie penguins, a smaller breeds with black beaks and white rings around their eyes than their larger Gentoo cousins. Most of the Adelie have already bred and left for the sea. The ascent upon landing was extremely slippery, with hard rock upon which was frozen ice and then new snow. A few towels were laid down for us by the crew for a few yards which was helpful and after that we were on the snow laden mountainside walking with our poles for stability. This was definitely an outing for the physically fit and I asked for assistance on the slippery last section on the way down back to the zodiac. I am adventurous but not foolish and know my limits.
On our return in our zodiac, we were greeted by the exciting sight of a humpback whale breaching right in front of us, showing us its front and tail. That is the special thing about visiting this part of the world, the unexpected wildlife sightings.
The whole ship participated in a ritual before lunch, the polar plunge. A good number of our fellow shipmates stood for a moment in their bathing suits at the front of the ship and then jumped or dived into the freezing water. They then immediately walked a few steps up to the dry towels waiting for them with crew members around to help them. As one of the brave souls mentioned later, it was the immediate “brain freeze” that was the most difficult part. Pat and I stood dressed in our full polar gear on the outside observation deck watching this event and glad we were not, and even earlier in our lives would never be, interested in joining in.
Yesterday afternoon, we cruised out to Galindez Island/Winter Island where we were greeted with many rafts of penguins, cavorting in the water, swimming and jumping up and over each other about 12-20 in each group. There was one large leopard seal enjoying a rest on a large rock which we passed – these large animals seem to enjoy solitary outings in the sea. The tourist attraction on this island is Wordie House, a small structure used by groups of early- to mid- 20th century British researchers and now abandoned, with its interior preserved as an historical record of the times.
Today in the afternoon with sun and wind, we landed on a small rocky beach and then hiked up onto fresh snow in magnificent scenery to a viewpoint from where we could see Point Lockroy, a historic British research station, below. This was a beautiful but tiring walk as although it was not slippery, it took energy to walk a long distance uphill in deep snow, using poles to push off and stay steady. The view was worth it and we made it back to the last zodiac with the final group of passengers to depart the island.
I have been wearing: a thermal under shirt, a fleece jacket, a thick polyester jacket, then my North Pole down jacket, a wool hat, wool scarf, glove liners and insulated gloves, hi-tech high wool socks and a second overpair of wool socks, thermal underwear, ski pants, and waterproof over pants. Plus the insulated muck boots. It takes about 20 minutes to get suited up. My body has been warm and dry but my hands and feet do get cold in the zodiac!
There was an outdoor BBQ at night, although Pat and I chose to sit inside at the large windows at the bow of the ship and watch the sun and shadow play on snow and ice on a stunning strait of high mountains and wide glaciers. We are halfway through with this journey.
Our best to you all.