Antarctica Final Days
Our last outing in this beautiful white world is to Deception Island, one of the South Shetland Islands, a known stopping off place for whalers in their time and for tourist cruise ships in the present day. We arrive at sunrise and stand on the deck as we sail around the impressive rocks the comprise the shore.
The island is a caldera, the remains of a volcano which has collapsed inwards to its center rather than exploded outwards, one of the few in the world which is at or below sea level so that the center depression is a water-filled sea. Crater Lake in Oregon, which should be called Caldera Lake, is another such geologic form. The early explorers in about 1820 found the very hidden entrance into this peaceful world, called Neptune’s Bellows due to its high winds, guarded by tall standing rocks which must be maneuvered around to enter the calm waters.
There are remains on the shore of the strong whaling industry of the early 20th century with boiling vats for oil and equipment to pulverize whale bones for fertilizer as well as deserted research stations, all destroyed by volcanic activity in about 1968-1969.
The island is a ring of rocky mountains with a very black beach around its edge. There are both penguins and seals around the shore that are enjoying the calm waters. In addition to our ship, there is an Argentinian military vessel guarding what it considers its realm. The most remarkable part of this vista is the steam arising off the sea onto one area of the dark beaches — from undersea volcanic vents which continue to heat the water and create steam when reaching the shore. Walking through this steam, you know it is from volcanic activity as it smells strongly of sulphur. We were told the water is warm but neither Pat nor I wished to wet our hands to try it out and then return them to our cold gloves.
We were able to walk up a high hill to a vista point at Neptune’s bellow, which was beautiful but with a path covered with snow and slippery on the steepest parts. The view was worth it, with the ocean on one side and a view of the entire caldera on the other. Again, I was glad to have my poles for this last part of the snowy trek.
We have now said goodbye to the Antarctic peninsula and are on our way into the Chilean Fjords but first there was our journey across Drake’s passage, a rough patch of sea for a day and a half. We were fortunate in that it was relatively quiet for us — the sailors on board described our passage as “moderate” with some 9 foot swells which were not very steep or distressing. Some people on board who are very sensitive did not feel well but Pat and I took the recommended medication, a non-drowsy form of Dramamine, and had no problems except keeping our balance as we walked up stairs and around the decks on the swaying vessel. There were lectures to keep us occupied and games in the evening and of course three very big meals every day.
We woke up this morning to a quiet ship as we stopped at Port Williams to clear Chilean customs before we head into the Beagle Channel and travel all day back to Punta Arenas. We cruise past the many islands of the Tierra del Fuego, with spectacular glaciers on the sides of mountains spilling into the sea.
Once we land in the port of Punta Arenas, Pat and I head out on a morning tour I arranged to Fort Bulnes, founded in 1842 by the Chilean government who wanted to claim the most southern point of the South American continent. The old buildings have been partly preserved and reconstructed and we walk around the historic buildings and though old forests down to the shore. Our guide is good and It is a beautiful coast and an appropriate closing vista of our time in the most southern part of the world.
Pat and I have a final meal and head out for the airport and a long journey home, to Santiago, Panama City, and then to San Francisco. Thank you, Aurora Expeditions, for making this journey such a memorable and special experience.